Jo Ann Rebane
More cultural notes from Estonia. First, it must be said that WiFi connectivity, although promised at our hotel in Pärnu, was slow to non-functional. And here at the Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island the excellent wireless connection we had initially was knocked out by yesterday's mid-day thunder, lightning, and hail storm (George said it fried their router's network card). While we dinned in the Seahouse Restaurant the storm raged outside. We walked back to our room under clearing skies and the promise of sunshine. Please visit the hotels’ website to get an idea of the splendor of this place called Estonia’s finest hotel and spa. Truly, our arrival timing was fortunate. We were the only guests last
night and this morning, so they kindly upgraded us from the simplest “double” I’d reserved, to a fabulous two story suite in the Carriage House (two left hand windows on the second floor are ours). It looks just like the picture on the website! This morning the entire dining room was all ours for a private breakfast with very attentive service and beautiful music in the background - they even lit all the candles in the dining room and on the patio for us.
Continuing with cultural notes:
• Tidy road sides. We learned from a store clerk (studying 20th century wars) that two months ago (May) 50,000 Estonians turned out across the land to pick up trash in public areas and along road sides. That’s one more explanation for the pristine countryside we see.
• Holidays and businesses. June 23rd and 24th are both national holidays in Estonia. We’ve encountered more “closed for the holiday” signs in shops and restaurants than you’d ever see in Nevada City or Sacramento or San Francisco. In Tartu, merchants aren’t prepared for tourists and tourists don’t come… Is this a chicken and egg problem? Thank goodness our hotel feels a responsibility to its guests and maintains a first class restaurant.
• Public restrooms. I’m pleasantly surprised to find restrooms (WC) widely available, free, clean and stocked with toilet paper, soap and paper towels. What a relief!
• Wildlife sighting. I saw a mini deer (not a fawn but a small scale deer) today standing at the interface where the forest meets the road’s shoulder. We were driving from Pärnu to the ferry terminal at Virtsu on a secondary road. That was a real surprise and treat.
Road Ruminations – 29jun08
George Rebane
We are definitely ready to head for the barn. This is our last night in Estonia and tomorrow morning we drive to the airport, turn in our mud splattered Opel sedan, and fly to Frankfurt. Yesterday afternoon we arrived back in Tallinn after a short drive from Muhu and Saaremaa, the country’s big island in the Baltic. There our stay in Pädaste at the renovated manor cum luxury hotel was most pleasant. On Friday night we ate in their gracious dining room, this time with sharing it with guests that had arrived for the weekend.
One of the gentleman guests ordered a glass of port and a cigar as the dessert was being cleared and the last coffees served. He properly went to enjoy his smoke and drink on the nearby steps just outside the big glass-enclosed patio. This stirred up some long-dormant juices, for once long ago I too enjoyed those pungent delights after such dinners. But today, seeing such pleasures from a distance, all I do is pine and start telling stories of when I too … . As we left the dining room, I decided to stop by the cigar case for a last, longing look, and discovered another little commentary on Estonian culture – their mandated warning label on tobacco products. The government here doesn’t go into twisted tirades about tobacco causing, perhaps, lung cancer, or possibly aggravating your emphysema, or maybe having your baby born with its three legs in a knot. No sir, in very big, black-bordered print they get right to the point – “Smoking can kill.”
So yesterday morning, after saying goodbye to the owner, Mr. Martin Breuer, and a couple of especially helpful staff, we drove to the ferry port Kuivastu and got on to the ferry that was just ready to depart. Half an hour later we were back on the mainland and on our way to Tallinn. We took some back roads so that I could visit Vasalemma, the small town outside of Tallinn where my aunt once lived. My dad took mom and me there during an interval in 1943 when the Soviet bombers were hitting the capital every night. The old train station was the only building there that I could say with certainty that I had passed through, we no longer have my aunt’s old address. Oh yes, this report would be incomplete without mentioning the obscene field of wildflowers we drove by. It’s amazing how fast I can still react to an authoritarian voice screaming that I stop the car so we could take a picture.
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